I don't want to spend all of my time here using my Couchhost's computer, but I was gently awoken this morning by first a pigeon taking roost on the windowsill, and then rudely re-awoken by jackhammering in the street, so I don't really feel like this time is cutting into my day, which I had anticipated would start at about 10 o'clock.
I spend yesterday in Avignon, a large-ish city to the northwest of Aix. It's old, and beautiful, and I have plenty of pictures (and many more details) to post once I get home! I'm alternating my money-spending days with lazy free days (today) so that I don't become exhausted, financially and physically.
I'm meeting my second Couchhost tonight, a young French university student named Carole who lives in a studio apartment with her boyfriend, Clemente. I'm hoping she's looking forward to this being as much of a slumber party as I am.
Also, Nicole sent me a fantasic link to a New York Times article the other day about France and Halloween, a holiday that confuses and bemuses the French populace. I have yet to see any signs of alowine's approach in Aix, though I'm hoping that Marseille at least will have some bumpin' parties next Saturday.
I'm about to head off to the boulangerie to get some bread for this morning, as well as sniff out some good olive oil. I've compiled a small stack of non-perishable goodies that I'm dragging with me from house to house, knowing that I'll surely use them: green lentils, a bag of rice, garlic, a box of English Breakfast tea, hopefully olive oil. The only thing I wish I'd brought from home was salt and pepper, since I always feel bad asking my Couchhost if I can use a bit of hers. Dommage !
27.10.09
25.10.09
Provence
So I made it to Aix-en-Provence without a hitch, the train ride was stunning, my couch host is fantastic, and the city is alive!
21.10.09
Lazy Title
I'm not sure if I ever properly explained what "la vie vosgienne" entails. This is a picture I found online of a woman who I think depicts the ideal "vosgienne" (woman from the Vosges):
She lives and works on a farm, has short, probably dyed, hair, and thin lips. She loves to eat anything with lardons (pieces of very fatty bacon), melted cheese, or mushrooms. She's tough as nails, but will lend you anything you might need. She's kind of dumpy; you have no idea why she's so physically strong.
That's about it. The Vosges are cold, mountainous, and have great dairy farms, so the people eat and act exactly as you think they might -- consuming massive quantities of cheese, bread, potatoes, and ham, and heating their homes with wood stoves. Kind of like upstate New Yorkers. Just thought I'd let everyone know.
Also, I think I might have found a replacement shampoo -- soap. I agonized over the ingredients on every bottle of shampoo, body wash, baby soap, and bar soap at the pharmacy today, until I settled on THIS:
She lives and works on a farm, has short, probably dyed, hair, and thin lips. She loves to eat anything with lardons (pieces of very fatty bacon), melted cheese, or mushrooms. She's tough as nails, but will lend you anything you might need. She's kind of dumpy; you have no idea why she's so physically strong.
That's about it. The Vosges are cold, mountainous, and have great dairy farms, so the people eat and act exactly as you think they might -- consuming massive quantities of cheese, bread, potatoes, and ham, and heating their homes with wood stoves. Kind of like upstate New Yorkers. Just thought I'd let everyone know.
Also, I think I might have found a replacement shampoo -- soap. I agonized over the ingredients on every bottle of shampoo, body wash, baby soap, and bar soap at the pharmacy today, until I settled on THIS:
All good ingredients: essential oils, simple saponified oils of olive and palm, some chamomile extract. The only weird ingredient is salt, but it's listed last, so I'm not concerned. This soap is the closest thing I could find to a concentrated version of castile soap, and so far it seems to be a pretty good match. I frothed it up in my hands, rubbed it all over my scalp, then rinsed with vinegar as usual. And my hair feels awesome!
It's a comfort to know (now) that I can maintain my chemical-free shampoo habits without having too many problems. I was kind of worried what "normal" shampoo would do to my hair and body. I tried using a "regular" toner on my face during the middle of summer, just to see what would happen, and my skin freaked out -- pimples, irritation like crazy. I went through a pretty intense detox period after I stopped using shampoo, conditioner, and lotion -- and I'd rather not reverse it. My skin burned, my hair was a mess, I was in turns too dry and too greasy. Then after two weeks -- aha! Balance.
19.10.09
Not-So-Brief Updates
1. I got my social security number today! I am officially a temporary French citizen, and have all the same rights (health care included!) as would any native Frenchwoman.
2. I went on a 8 mile-long bike ride today -- not an easy feat when going uphill and on a girl's 6-speed mountain bike... I feel like such a watered-down version of my formerly glorious biking self. But it was nice to explore more of the Vosges area, and to be able to say that I rode my bike "to the next lake over." It's very humbling being so limited by physical factors -- my own body, of course (I learned today that 40-degree weather means "wear a longsleeved shirt, Rachel"), and by geography. I rode my bike until I simply could not ride any further; the road ahead of me sloped upwards at what appeared to be a veritable 45-degree angle, and the bike lane disappeared. C'est la vie. If you'd like to take a look, check out the map on Gmaps Pedometer. I've been using the "terrain" feature a lot lately, and if you zoom out a couple clicks, you can see why I had to stop biking and turn around. If only I could get past those montagnes toutes dingues (ridiculous mountains) and make my way over to Munster!
3. I'm getting ready for my two-week jaunt in Provence, for which I leave on Saturday. I plan on visiting Marseille (big seaside city), Arles (Van Gogh hotspot), Aix-en-Provence (where I'll be staying the whole time; also a Cezanne hotspot), some naturey national parks in the area, and plenty of olive shops. The very famous, very French movie Jean de Florette (1986), directed by Claude Berri and featuring the extra-French lords of cinema, Gerard Depardieu and Yves Montand (and based on the book, La gloire de mon pere, by Marcel Pagnol) was filmed in the countryside of Provence, and I'm pretty jazzed to see it.
4. I think my brief, passionate affair with homemade shampoo has come to an end. Involuntarily, of course. Castile soap is simply not sold in France, and importing from a British distributor would cost me at least $30 for a small bottle -- and I have to put a price on my hair at some point, I'm afraid. I've been quite frugal with the little bottle of shampoo I had brought with me from America, but I'm looking pretty grungy these days as a result (tendrils a la Spring Break, for all of you who remember). So I'm buying my first bottle of commercially-made shampoo in almost a year (aah!), which is going to be an emotionally painful and long process, as I carefully read each and every ingredient on the back of each and every bottle of French "shampooing" (pronounced shah-pwang -- crazy, I know). They love fresh vegetables and local wine, but don't seem to care one bit about their body products, which baffles me; I haven't seen a single thing labeled "natural" or "organic" (or "bio," en francais), so I might have to take the plunge directly into Herbal Essences or something equally appalling. Wish me luck.
2. I went on a 8 mile-long bike ride today -- not an easy feat when going uphill and on a girl's 6-speed mountain bike... I feel like such a watered-down version of my formerly glorious biking self. But it was nice to explore more of the Vosges area, and to be able to say that I rode my bike "to the next lake over." It's very humbling being so limited by physical factors -- my own body, of course (I learned today that 40-degree weather means "wear a longsleeved shirt, Rachel"), and by geography. I rode my bike until I simply could not ride any further; the road ahead of me sloped upwards at what appeared to be a veritable 45-degree angle, and the bike lane disappeared. C'est la vie. If you'd like to take a look, check out the map on Gmaps Pedometer. I've been using the "terrain" feature a lot lately, and if you zoom out a couple clicks, you can see why I had to stop biking and turn around. If only I could get past those montagnes toutes dingues (ridiculous mountains) and make my way over to Munster!
3. I'm getting ready for my two-week jaunt in Provence, for which I leave on Saturday. I plan on visiting Marseille (big seaside city), Arles (Van Gogh hotspot), Aix-en-Provence (where I'll be staying the whole time; also a Cezanne hotspot), some naturey national parks in the area, and plenty of olive shops. The very famous, very French movie Jean de Florette (1986), directed by Claude Berri and featuring the extra-French lords of cinema, Gerard Depardieu and Yves Montand (and based on the book, La gloire de mon pere, by Marcel Pagnol) was filmed in the countryside of Provence, and I'm pretty jazzed to see it.
4. I think my brief, passionate affair with homemade shampoo has come to an end. Involuntarily, of course. Castile soap is simply not sold in France, and importing from a British distributor would cost me at least $30 for a small bottle -- and I have to put a price on my hair at some point, I'm afraid. I've been quite frugal with the little bottle of shampoo I had brought with me from America, but I'm looking pretty grungy these days as a result (tendrils a la Spring Break, for all of you who remember). So I'm buying my first bottle of commercially-made shampoo in almost a year (aah!), which is going to be an emotionally painful and long process, as I carefully read each and every ingredient on the back of each and every bottle of French "shampooing" (pronounced shah-pwang -- crazy, I know). They love fresh vegetables and local wine, but don't seem to care one bit about their body products, which baffles me; I haven't seen a single thing labeled "natural" or "organic" (or "bio," en francais), so I might have to take the plunge directly into Herbal Essences or something equally appalling. Wish me luck.
18.10.09
Transatlantic Flatulence
Fromage de la semaine! (Cheese of the week!). This is gonna be a thing from now on.
Last week's cheese: chevre.
Last week's cheese: chevre.
Notice the rind.
This week's cheese: tomme noire des pyranees rocabret.
Not the best picture, but I wanted to capture the quiet superiority of this cheese. It's what havarti always wants to be, but never, ever is.
Also, I've been reading this French music magazine called Tsugi recently, which is fantastic not only for its content (featured musicians include Animal Collective, Dinosaur Jr., Kanye West, Busy P, and DJ Medhi) but also for its slang. I'm learning casual swears, abbreviated conversation, and a whole lot about funky European electro artists. Nothing like a stinging interview with Paul McCartney to teach me the word for "bullshit" (connerie).
And this is a cartoon of David Guetta decapitating someone with a record:
Chanteuse
I remember being about eight or nine years old when I met my cousin's girlfriend, Rachel, for the first time. She drew pictures and had long hair and a really awesome leather satchel and I thought she was SO COOL. Fourteen years later, and I'm still struck by how COOL I find these types of women. Cool! What does that even mean? I'm impressed and amazed and suddenly become timid when it's time to talk. Who knew I would lose my own cool?
I saw a little show last night with my roommate and another assistant at a local bar. It was supposed to be a band, or a duo, or something, playing on stage for the night, but at the last minute everyone dropped out and the lead singer, a woman with (surprise here) long hair, a flowy skirt, awesome jewelry, and a guitar, ended up playing alone. She was a Gallic Fiona Apple, singing about "les fees du vent" (fairies of the wind) and crooning, telling the audience that "je chante pour toi" (I'm singing for you).
She also did something that I've only seen one other band (TV on the Radio) do on stage -- record loop tracks on the spot. I'm sure this isn't hard to do, and that my limited exposure to it is directly related to what bands I've seen. Nevertheless, it was awesome. For one song, she said she needed the audience's help, and started blowing into the microphone and snapping her fingers. Some people in the front row started blowing too, making a sort of rustling, crackly autumn sound. She'd been recording the whole time, of course, and this little improv nature soundtrack played behind her throughout the whole song. It was incredible. She did this with a bunch of other tracks, too, providing her own percussion, harmonies (she would record the same tune twice and just harmonize with her recorded self), and twitchy nature sounds like the one above.
And I can't really explain why, or how, I felt so in awe of this woman. "Awe" is a tricky word, even -- I felt like a little kid, watching her favorite cartoon character do something incredible on television while illogically (but no less passionately) wanting to be their best friend. (I felt this way about Nala from "The Lion King" when I was little, so this is not really just a simile.) Such a cool chick! All I can do is give her a thumbs up. I think I'm in love.
Listen, look, and translate into English: Alifair.
I saw a little show last night with my roommate and another assistant at a local bar. It was supposed to be a band, or a duo, or something, playing on stage for the night, but at the last minute everyone dropped out and the lead singer, a woman with (surprise here) long hair, a flowy skirt, awesome jewelry, and a guitar, ended up playing alone. She was a Gallic Fiona Apple, singing about "les fees du vent" (fairies of the wind) and crooning, telling the audience that "je chante pour toi" (I'm singing for you).
She also did something that I've only seen one other band (TV on the Radio) do on stage -- record loop tracks on the spot. I'm sure this isn't hard to do, and that my limited exposure to it is directly related to what bands I've seen. Nevertheless, it was awesome. For one song, she said she needed the audience's help, and started blowing into the microphone and snapping her fingers. Some people in the front row started blowing too, making a sort of rustling, crackly autumn sound. She'd been recording the whole time, of course, and this little improv nature soundtrack played behind her throughout the whole song. It was incredible. She did this with a bunch of other tracks, too, providing her own percussion, harmonies (she would record the same tune twice and just harmonize with her recorded self), and twitchy nature sounds like the one above.
And I can't really explain why, or how, I felt so in awe of this woman. "Awe" is a tricky word, even -- I felt like a little kid, watching her favorite cartoon character do something incredible on television while illogically (but no less passionately) wanting to be their best friend. (I felt this way about Nala from "The Lion King" when I was little, so this is not really just a simile.) Such a cool chick! All I can do is give her a thumbs up. I think I'm in love.
Listen, look, and translate into English: Alifair.
15.10.09
Guilty
I'm usually not one for publishing food porn, but these three staples of my diet -- bread, tomatoes, and garlic -- are simply incredible, and must be shared. I tried to respect their dignity, and told them that on my site, nudity was prohibited.
I feel like the healthiest I've ever been. Every morning begins with a small cup of coffee, and every evening closes with one glass of red wine. The worst thing I've put into my body in the three weeks I've been here is probably a chocolate bar. I derive my protein solely from dairy (yoghurt, chevre), lentils, chickpeas, and fresh eggs; I have one or two kiwis a day, to keep up my vitamin intake; I eat something fresh (i.e., not cooked) at least twice a day. Last night, dinner was a spinach salad with chevre, red peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, and balsamic vinaigrette; the night before, penne with escargots and mushrooms in a light cream sauce. Breakfast is usually fruit, eggs (with chevre, onions, garlic, peppers, zucchini, harissa [a very spicy, olive-oily pimento spread I bought from the market]), and bread. I consume what seem like massive amounts of food, but have actually lost weight and feel incredibly fit.
I hate to sound self-righteous, but I myself am amazed at how quickly the body adapts to a good diet. I feel more energized than ever (if that's possible), have clearer thoughts, and am more willing to jump around and exercise than I ever have been. Not that I've ever hated exercise -- but when you're feeling this great, a bike ride in the forest sounds like the best idea EVER, rather than just a good way to get some exercise.
I'm high on life !
13.10.09
Jour Deux
Work has begun! It's taken long enough... after lots of bureaucractic silliness, I've finally started working at school and will officially be a paid French employee at the end of the month! The French system may have its drawbacks, but it's certainly all worth it for the "free" health care, the unbelievably cheap renter's insurance (12 euro for six months?!), and the almost-too-frequent vacations (my first one begins next Saturday, and is almost two weeks long).
Basic outline of my position: my title is "language assistant," but I'm really just the English teacher. Most of the elementary school teachers can barely speak English here anyway, so it's a huge relief for them to have me come into their classes and do all the nasty pronunciation work for them. I work at two primary schools and have a weekly videoconference with another in a town about 17 kilometers away. My classes range from barely literate (in French! Ils sont tous petits) to quite advanced (can hold very basic conversations about what they like and don't like, how they feel, etc.).
It's been quite a lot of work so far, but I know most of it is of my own doing. I have 10 classes in total, and so I've been spending an excessive amount of time organizing, copying, color-coding, etc., all of my folders, worksheets, and lesson plans. The introductions were basically all the same (my name, where I'm from, coloring the American flag), but now I need to start devising ways to creatively teach things like colors, days of the week, seasons/weather, numbers, and useful phrases, all at different levels. Once I get this stupid binder organized, I think I'll be ok.
The hard work is also tempered by all the free time I get -- 2 hours for lunch (which actually is a pain, since I live too far away to actually go home and eat), and Wednesdays off. It works out (ca marche) -- though it is a bit difficult to find things to do/somewhere to go during my lunch break. The banks, post office, pharmacies, some bakeries, library, culture center, and schools (seriously! the kids go home for lunch too!) are closed from 11:30 to about 1 or 2:30. Pretty much the only things open are restaurants and the church -- so I usually just go read in the church.
I wish I had some cute photos of the kids or the schools or something! I'll risk being misconstrued as weird and just take a couple someday. I suppose I do have seven months to do it...
Unrelated aside: I'm going to Provence for my first vacation! I've been in pretty regular contact with a French friend I met while traveling in Australia, and he invited me to come down and stay at his new apartment in Aix-en-Provence whenever I got the chance, since he obviously knew I was moving to France for bit. The region is considered one of the most temperature, lively, and beautiful regions of France, known for its olives, herbs (Herbs de Provence, anyone?), lamb, and seafood. I'm also going to be staying with a couple people I met through Couchsurfing.com, a website that helps travelers connect with locals to find places to stay while abroad. I came into contact with a young American going to school in Provence (who I'll be staying with the first two nights) and a young couple who are also both students (the next two nights). The following week I'll be staying with Remi, my French friend -- and all for free! The world is so tiny and amazing if you just know where to look, I think.
Again, I wish I had some pictures of me out and about, doing things in France, but all I have is this:
I started eating kiwis with the skins on because I heard that they're really good for you, even more so than the flesh (as are most skins of fruits and vegetables, I think... not animals). It kind of feels like your're biting into a beardy man, but once you get past that, it's not bad at all. It makes me feel better since I hate wasting kiwi flesh.
Basic outline of my position: my title is "language assistant," but I'm really just the English teacher. Most of the elementary school teachers can barely speak English here anyway, so it's a huge relief for them to have me come into their classes and do all the nasty pronunciation work for them. I work at two primary schools and have a weekly videoconference with another in a town about 17 kilometers away. My classes range from barely literate (in French! Ils sont tous petits) to quite advanced (can hold very basic conversations about what they like and don't like, how they feel, etc.).
It's been quite a lot of work so far, but I know most of it is of my own doing. I have 10 classes in total, and so I've been spending an excessive amount of time organizing, copying, color-coding, etc., all of my folders, worksheets, and lesson plans. The introductions were basically all the same (my name, where I'm from, coloring the American flag), but now I need to start devising ways to creatively teach things like colors, days of the week, seasons/weather, numbers, and useful phrases, all at different levels. Once I get this stupid binder organized, I think I'll be ok.
The hard work is also tempered by all the free time I get -- 2 hours for lunch (which actually is a pain, since I live too far away to actually go home and eat), and Wednesdays off. It works out (ca marche) -- though it is a bit difficult to find things to do/somewhere to go during my lunch break. The banks, post office, pharmacies, some bakeries, library, culture center, and schools (seriously! the kids go home for lunch too!) are closed from 11:30 to about 1 or 2:30. Pretty much the only things open are restaurants and the church -- so I usually just go read in the church.
I wish I had some cute photos of the kids or the schools or something! I'll risk being misconstrued as weird and just take a couple someday. I suppose I do have seven months to do it...
Unrelated aside: I'm going to Provence for my first vacation! I've been in pretty regular contact with a French friend I met while traveling in Australia, and he invited me to come down and stay at his new apartment in Aix-en-Provence whenever I got the chance, since he obviously knew I was moving to France for bit. The region is considered one of the most temperature, lively, and beautiful regions of France, known for its olives, herbs (Herbs de Provence, anyone?), lamb, and seafood. I'm also going to be staying with a couple people I met through Couchsurfing.com, a website that helps travelers connect with locals to find places to stay while abroad. I came into contact with a young American going to school in Provence (who I'll be staying with the first two nights) and a young couple who are also both students (the next two nights). The following week I'll be staying with Remi, my French friend -- and all for free! The world is so tiny and amazing if you just know where to look, I think.
Again, I wish I had some pictures of me out and about, doing things in France, but all I have is this:
I started eating kiwis with the skins on because I heard that they're really good for you, even more so than the flesh (as are most skins of fruits and vegetables, I think... not animals). It kind of feels like your're biting into a beardy man, but once you get past that, it's not bad at all. It makes me feel better since I hate wasting kiwi flesh.
11.10.09
Paradis Trouvé
Went wandering off again toute seule (alone) on my bike and found this great little forested area just on the border of Gerardmer and Xonrupt. It's called Les Cercenees:
This little guy (I found out later) is extremely toxic! If you eat it you die.
And finally! A picture of me in my natural habitat.
10.10.09
Paradis Perdu
I got lost in the mountains today !
The top of the Xettes (foothills, I guess, of the Vosges mountains) is quite close to my apartment, so I decided to go for a bike ride there this afternoon. There were supposed to be trails and rocks and fun stuff like that, so I put on my teal Spandex pants and set off alone. It was a steady uphill ride -- it took me about half an hour -- but the view was incredible. At the very top of the Xettes is also a strange farm that sells homemade mohair stuff and has live goats; I think it's considered to be one of the "sights" up there.
So I trekked around, rode on some rocky paths, talked to an old lady and her dog for a bit, and started heading back when it began to rain. RAIN. I wanted to be adventurous and explore some more, which I did despite the downpour. I got lost, I got cold, I got pissed, I came home.
It's oddly comforting knowing that, however small I perceive Gerardmer to be, there's always some new back-woodsy trail on which I can lose myself. I'll have to make sure I take advantage of this before the snow gets here.
The top of the Xettes (foothills, I guess, of the Vosges mountains) is quite close to my apartment, so I decided to go for a bike ride there this afternoon. There were supposed to be trails and rocks and fun stuff like that, so I put on my teal Spandex pants and set off alone. It was a steady uphill ride -- it took me about half an hour -- but the view was incredible. At the very top of the Xettes is also a strange farm that sells homemade mohair stuff and has live goats; I think it's considered to be one of the "sights" up there.
So I trekked around, rode on some rocky paths, talked to an old lady and her dog for a bit, and started heading back when it began to rain. RAIN. I wanted to be adventurous and explore some more, which I did despite the downpour. I got lost, I got cold, I got pissed, I came home.
It's oddly comforting knowing that, however small I perceive Gerardmer to be, there's always some new back-woodsy trail on which I can lose myself. I'll have to make sure I take advantage of this before the snow gets here.
This is a bit of a shoddy picture (taken the other day), but I thought the sky looked incredible. And this is some Munster cheese (from Munster! half an hour away):
7.10.09
Musical Endeavors
I've been trying to get a feel for the traditional customs in Gerardmer by groping all the locals. Nah, just kidding. I've been going to concerts and movies and markets.
Lats Sunday, I went to a pipe organ concert in the main church in Gerardmer, Saint Bartholemy. The church recently had its organ restored, and so its musical renaissance was celebrated with a massive concert. A master organ player from the music conservatory in Nancy came to play it, and gee -- I nearly soiled myself with delight.
Lats Sunday, I went to a pipe organ concert in the main church in Gerardmer, Saint Bartholemy. The church recently had its organ restored, and so its musical renaissance was celebrated with a massive concert. A master organ player from the music conservatory in Nancy came to play it, and gee -- I nearly soiled myself with delight.
Unfortunately, this beautiful kidney was situated behind the audience, as I think are all organs in churches. I turned around a couple times to see the organist at work (he was thrashing around!), but for the most part, not being able to visually focus on something actually turned out to be quite the musical experience. For almost an hour and a half, the audience was seated and silent -- nothing to do, nothing to look at. The only sensory element in the church was the music, which created a sort of auditory backdrop to the collective thought arena of the audience.
I don't know how much the music influenced my thoughts, or how much of my thoughts existed independently of the music, but either way, I was mentally floating. I didn't get sleepy or fade out; my mind was resting on what became the theme song for my brain. It helped that the repertoire was quite good, as well -- the organist played some gentle Easter songs (whatever that means; they were peaceful), some extremely intense vampire tri-tonal mind-blowing songs, and some other stuff in between. I was very impressed.
I think attending a musical event without any sort of non-auditory sensory stimulation should be mandatory for all musicians. An orchestra concert doesn't count -- you can see the musicians, and follow the movement of the conductor. Maybe try listening to your favorite CD for an hour or so while staring at the wall? Just see what happens.
Also, I've gotten to practice my violin a couple times since I've been here, which has been nice. The acoustics in my dining room are fantastic!
4.10.09
Hairway to Steven
Adjustment has occurred! Being frustrated and homesick that first week was like having a non life-threatening illness -- knowing you'll get better soon (but never soon enough) is almost as bad as having the illness itself. So here it is: my slowed-down, chilled-out, mountain-time mind and body state of being. My definition of the word "adventure" has already adjusted to its current circumstance (as it always does and should, eventually), so that even the tiniest of events becomes something great. It's a wonderful little adaptation skill that I didn't really know I had until now -- until the urgency to adapt confronts me face-to-face. Some recent adventures that you city folk ;-) might find a bit rustic:
>>The market. Every Thursday and Saturday morning, the town of Gerardmer hosts an open-air market in the church parking lot. In addition to your regular fresh fruits and veggies (apples, carrots, potatoes) there are some great Vosges specialties: chanterelle mushrooms, munster cheese (so stinky!), muscat grapes, mirabelles (in the prune family), locally-made wine from Alsace. I bought some honey last Thursday, in addition to a loaf of "pain complet" (whole grain bread), "tartine de feta" (feta cheese and herb spread), and some fresh eggs, among other things. I'm living the gastronomic life I've always wanted to -- buying fresh bread every other day or so, going out to the market and getting the ingredients I need for my meals that day. It goes without saying that you buy what's in season -- some of the season's last few grapes, strawberries, raspberries, and apples are still out, but squash, potatoes, and carrots are becoming increasingly popular among the vendors.
>>Leaving town. I tried taking the bus to visit a fellow assistant in Vagney (about 17 kilometres from Gerardmer)... but I missed it. I took a different one instead and hitched a ride with an elderly French woman who was just returning from a grape-picking stint at a vineyard in Alsace. I arrived at Vagney around sunset and, though I didn't know where my friend lived, managed to find him using the help of another friendly French woman. Had my first social night out "on the town" (at the one and only pub in town) with another American, who has turned out to be a really great companion.
>>Experiencing "la langue courante" (familiar speech). I saw a movie last night ("Rien de Personnel") with my roommate and another British assistant which, while I did have some trouble following the dialogue, turned out to be a great exercise in learning French slang and common speech. I've been chatting with a French acquaintance of mine, Sara, who is a constant source of colloquial expressions and counterintuitive phrases, as well as reading a music magazine, Tsugi, which is both interesting on a base content level (Animal Collective, Kanye West, and Busy P were all featured in the magazine, as were a ton of fascinating electro artists whose music I can't wait to steal -- Europe is so ahead of the curve) and on a language level. Interviews are great sources of snappy phrases and slang words.
I've been catching up on a ton of things I've always wanted to do, but never had the time: cleaning up my resume, organizing my photos, reading more often, exercising and exploring. And while this isn't exactly a luxury activity or something that I've been longing to do, I've also been doing all of my laundry by hand, in the sink in the bathroom. I hung a clothesline in my room next to window, and let my stuff dry for a bit while I'm out during the day (or while I'm sleeping, ha). Cleaning, cooking, chores, et cetera -- not exactly intellectually-stimulating stuff in its own right, but thought-provoking in its execution. I've never really had to think about "what it means" to live like this -- in the country, terrible transportation, slow food, beautiful isolation -- but it's quite a trip. Doing so-called mindless chores lets your mind wander, to wherever it pleases, without provocation or arbitration. What am I going to think about next? On which part of my life will I reflect? How will my body respond to this? How will my mind react to what I'm doing?
>>The market. Every Thursday and Saturday morning, the town of Gerardmer hosts an open-air market in the church parking lot. In addition to your regular fresh fruits and veggies (apples, carrots, potatoes) there are some great Vosges specialties: chanterelle mushrooms, munster cheese (so stinky!), muscat grapes, mirabelles (in the prune family), locally-made wine from Alsace. I bought some honey last Thursday, in addition to a loaf of "pain complet" (whole grain bread), "tartine de feta" (feta cheese and herb spread), and some fresh eggs, among other things. I'm living the gastronomic life I've always wanted to -- buying fresh bread every other day or so, going out to the market and getting the ingredients I need for my meals that day. It goes without saying that you buy what's in season -- some of the season's last few grapes, strawberries, raspberries, and apples are still out, but squash, potatoes, and carrots are becoming increasingly popular among the vendors.
>>Leaving town. I tried taking the bus to visit a fellow assistant in Vagney (about 17 kilometres from Gerardmer)... but I missed it. I took a different one instead and hitched a ride with an elderly French woman who was just returning from a grape-picking stint at a vineyard in Alsace. I arrived at Vagney around sunset and, though I didn't know where my friend lived, managed to find him using the help of another friendly French woman. Had my first social night out "on the town" (at the one and only pub in town) with another American, who has turned out to be a really great companion.
>>Experiencing "la langue courante" (familiar speech). I saw a movie last night ("Rien de Personnel") with my roommate and another British assistant which, while I did have some trouble following the dialogue, turned out to be a great exercise in learning French slang and common speech. I've been chatting with a French acquaintance of mine, Sara, who is a constant source of colloquial expressions and counterintuitive phrases, as well as reading a music magazine, Tsugi, which is both interesting on a base content level (Animal Collective, Kanye West, and Busy P were all featured in the magazine, as were a ton of fascinating electro artists whose music I can't wait to steal -- Europe is so ahead of the curve) and on a language level. Interviews are great sources of snappy phrases and slang words.
I've been catching up on a ton of things I've always wanted to do, but never had the time: cleaning up my resume, organizing my photos, reading more often, exercising and exploring. And while this isn't exactly a luxury activity or something that I've been longing to do, I've also been doing all of my laundry by hand, in the sink in the bathroom. I hung a clothesline in my room next to window, and let my stuff dry for a bit while I'm out during the day (or while I'm sleeping, ha). Cleaning, cooking, chores, et cetera -- not exactly intellectually-stimulating stuff in its own right, but thought-provoking in its execution. I've never really had to think about "what it means" to live like this -- in the country, terrible transportation, slow food, beautiful isolation -- but it's quite a trip. Doing so-called mindless chores lets your mind wander, to wherever it pleases, without provocation or arbitration. What am I going to think about next? On which part of my life will I reflect? How will my body respond to this? How will my mind react to what I'm doing?
TAKE TIME
1.10.09
Photos du Jour
Thanks Liz, for selling me this awesome camera!
out my window
le lac du Gerardmer
le lac encore
I think he knew I took this picture of him
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