29.4.10

Glow Time

Already?

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I went for a drive through Alsace yesterday with Danny, another American assistant, and Marion, our French, car-owning friend. A bit of history: though parts of Alsace are also situated in the Vosges, the villages and countryside are drastically different from those on the Lorraine side of the mountains. During World War II, the Germans completely razed many Lorraine-Vosgien towns (Gerardmer was 85% destroyed, for example), so they almost completely lack the medieval churches and cutesy cobblestone streets of most villages in Alsace. Also, the closer you get to Germany, the lower the Vosges become, so the countryside in Alsace is already greener, warmer, flatter, and hence better-suited to wine production than the Lorraine Vosges. Gerardmer wasn't made into a ski station for nothing; it's one of the coldest, snowiest places in the Vosges, aside from the cretes (the rocky high points that are usually accessed by independent mountaineers or skiiers).

So, voila, my trip through sunny Alsace:

Traveling through the Valley of Munster

 Kaysersberg

Looking towards Germany from the top of a chateau in Kaysersberg

Riquewihr, one of the most well-preserved medieval villages in Alsace, a.k.a., the Bruges of Alsace

Les fameux Marion and Danny

Well, a little bit of my life. I like this blog because it takes my mind off of myself, ironically -- I've been spending the last week internally freaking out about leaving (my last day of class tomorrow! yikes!), and it's soothing to create something that is purely for others. An experience doesn't quite feel genuine to me if it's not shared; meaning, I can run and hike and explore the world as much as I like, but it all almost seems lost if I don't somehow give a part of my new self away eventually. I recently read a short story, "Monsieur Ibrahim et les fleurs du Coran" (Eric-Emmanuel Schmitt) with a nice little quote: "Ce que tu donnes, Momo, c'est pour toi toujours; ce que tu gardes, c'est perdu a jamais!" Or something like that, meaning: "that which you give is yours always; that which you keep to yourself is lost forever." It was a cute story, you should read it; I think it was made into a movie.

I hope this blog has been informative at the very least.

25.4.10

High Times in the Low Countries

"If you want to travel fast, go alone. If you want to travel far, go together."

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BELGIUM: I swore to Bill that I would end my days in Belgium, living alone in a cabin next to a monastery and drinking Trappist beers until I could barely walk. Let's ignore the current governmental debacle and imagine that all will be well enough for me to realize this dream someday.

Atop a Flemish castle [Ghent]

 In the stable/torture chamber [Ghent]

Joyriding on our rented bikes [Brussels]

Basilica [Brussels]

The kitschy unreality that is [Bruges]

They really are better in Belgium [Bruges]

Design Museum [Ghent]

YES!

I would also like to give Bill an Honorable Mention for his travel skills. Our combined frugality and "appreciation" for the arts kept us in step with one another the entire time; I couldn't have asked for a better voyageur. I'm declaring this a tradition.

THE NETHERLANDS: It was nice to leave behind the francophones for once -- welcome, techno music, tall people, and stroopwafels! I stayed for a week in Amsterdam with my friend, Nicolette, whom I met two years ago in Australia. Besides being a good sport and going to all the city's major museums with me (Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House, Heineken Brewery, city Archives/Photo Exposition), Nicolette proved to be an excellent tour guide and host. There is nothing like tourism under the wing of a friend.

 Houseboat [Amsterdam]

 Nachtspelen ! [Amsterdam]

 Nicolette and Brenda, another Dutch friend from Australia, at Nachtspelen [Amsterdam]

 The Heineken Brewery

 Escher Museum [The Hague]

 A traditional herring and onion sandwich [The Hague]

LUXEMBOURG: My final stop. I spent the weekend Couchsurfing with Mareike, a German student in Luxembourg who loves the European Union. Her knowledge of Luxembourg was impressive, the highlights of which I will share here: the name Luxembourg comes from an old Latin word, Lucilinburhuc; the original fortress, on which the city iteself is built, was constructed in the 10th century; the city was invaded, in turn, by the French, the Austrians, the Prussians, and the Spanish; Luxembourg has the highest GDP in the world; the inhabitants speak Luxembourgish, a German dialect that is rarely written and wasn't declared as an official language (after French and German) until 1975. Cool! 

 The city is divided into la ville haute and la ville basse, separated by the ancient fortress wall

A residence in center city

Crypt #1

Crypt #2

At the event Design City, an urban outdoor design expo that welcomed breakdancers

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Maybe I'll elaborate a little more later. I'm still in the process of reflecting and sifting through my experiences, a process that surprisingly didn't happen during my countless hours on the train. I may not get around to it fully, actually -- I'm getting my other two wisdom teeth out tomorrow, and I suspect that this time around, I won't be recovering so quickly. 

But still, I'm proud for two reasons: another two-week trip in Europe for little more than 600 euro, and I've finally seen all the major parliamentary cities in Europe (Strasbourg, Brussels, The Hague, Luxembourg). Yes!

13.4.10

A brief update from Brussels

Everything you'd want and more from a Belgian vacation:

-cheap Trappist beers
-bike rentals
-15th century Flemish art
-waffles
-trilingual waiters
-FRIES
-horses
-chocolate (Bruges!)
-canals

And onward to Antwerp (or Ghent, we're not sure) tomorrow!

France is a beautiful country, but Belgium seems to have gotten more coolness and dropped the pretentiousness...

9.4.10

Accidental Art

Enough with food blogging and its obsession with well-presented food -- I had a couple of cooking accidents recently (fell asleep while the lentils were boiling… ruined the pan) and found some cool designs in my messes. And then I made them NEON! The red one is my background. 

my scraped and burned lentil pot (an ultrasound)

the charred impression of lentils... alas (pomegranate entrails)

sticky turmeric residue (toxic)

a pile of used curry leaves (frog's nest)

Has anyone read Amy Sedaris' "I Like You: Hospitality Under The Influence"? She takes some great pictures of food messes. My personal favorites: hot fruit, 12-step angel food cake, blue crab cheese balls.

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En plus: I'm leaving for my BENELUX trip tomorrow! Five days in Brussels with Bill, a week in Amsterdam with my Dutch friends Brenda and Nicolette, a weekend in Luxembourg with a stranger (Couchsurfing!). Daytrips to nearby cities are definitely in the works: Bruges, Gent, Rotterdam, Dutch fishing villages. We'll see. I like spending long periods of time in one location, as it makes for more flexible itineraries. Vacation keywords: chocolate, beer, canals, windmills, fries, European parliament, Nachtspelen.

I'm pretty excited to have a social vacation, as well as leave France for the first time since I've been here. I don't regret my previous vacations at all -- I'd rather dig deeply and narrowly than spread myself thin with a pathetic attempt to see "EUROPE" (omgz dublin was sooo awesome on st pattys day !!!1) -- though I am quick to admit that I've missed having a social life and, most of all, sharing experiences with people I know. I've explained my life story (in French) too many times; I'm ready to sit down with a friend and talk about nothing and everything and not care if I'm using the subjunctive correctly!

And then…

Time begins to lose its rigidity and the frightening spiral of departure gains momentum! I come back, get more wisdom teeth out (yeah… and this time they're slicing my gums open ::sigh::), work for my last week, i.e., play jeopardy and draw horses in all my classes, and somehow move my life to Paris. My boss was quite friendly when it came to moving me into Gerardmer, but trying to get him to give me a ride to the train station this time is like pulling teeth (the American dentist way). The last thing I want is to be hauling all my little life's possessions onto Vosgien transport, which is difficult enough without a violin, a suitcase, and two backpacks. (Did I mention I got passed by completely the other day, standing at the bus stop and waving at the driver? I have had enough of this overpriced garbage.)

I don't want to start the intense reflection period just yet, but I will say that my sejour in France has been one of the most beautiful, tranquil, educational experiences I have ever had. I am neither sad nor happy to leave; it's just over. NEXT.

7.4.10

Oh yeah, and...

I wanted to share the wealth about sharing the wealth. GET ON TOP OF THESE!

WWOOF: Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms.Work in exchange for food and lodging and support organic agricultural practices!

Couchsurfing: connect to the network and find people to stay with in cities all over the world, and host other travelers in return. I've done this every time I've traveled in France (and will do it again in Belgium and Luxembourg!), and have consistently met really excellent people. With things like this, you tend to fall into rather liberal, often vegetarian, socially-conscious young people... :-)

Covoiturage: an online carpool system. French, obviously, but this kind of thing surely exists in America. Look up commutes (as a passenger or driver) and find a match. I haven't actually used this, since Gerardmer isn't really on anyone's radar out here, but it is recommended to me often.

Local Harvest: pay a local farmer for a "share" of his or her crop, and go pick up your goods every week. Often organic or "natural" (whatever that means... without pesticides, sometimes, which is all right). Another one I haven't tried myself, but I'll certainly be in touch with Viv this summer to see how it goes...

If anyone knows of more exchange systems like these, let me know!

Ich bin Rachel

So my Deutsch lessons are going-- were going, should I say -- swimmingly. Today was my last day on the farm with jolly Susanne, the horses, stoic Mathias, trilingual Swiss Julia, the dogs... I'm really going to miss the clan, and certainly do owe them a lot. I feel like I haven't made that much progress until I remember that I knew nothing of German when I started this exchange just before Christmas, and at the very least my pronunciation has improved dramatically. Reading is obviously much easier for me than speaking and listening, but it's coming slowly... I intend on continuing my self-education through a hacked copy of Rosetta Stone or something else (NYC WWOOFing?). I didn't buy that Deutsch-Franzosich dictionary for nothing.

"You already speak German. You just don't hear it." - Julia, on the similarities between English and German

I've also learned a great deal of French and German horse and animal vocab; exercised my hitchhiking thumb (the bus passed right by me today, even as I held my arm out to wave it down); ridden a couple times; explored more of the beautiful Vosgien countryside; eaten at least a dozen free meals (yes! always good); and made the acquaintance of some people who have turned out to be friendlier, laughed louder, and worked harder than any French people I know. Huh. Maybe I need to go to Germany (or Switzerland).

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This website is up there in the "lame, specific, and unresistable" blog category, alongside Awkward Family Photos and Look At This Fucking Hipster. I present: This Is Why You're Fat.

Scott, this goes out to you: a bacon mug filled with melted cheddar cheese.

4.4.10

Justifying my Crusade Against Adults

Watching the tadpole turn into a frog was supposed to be a lesson in organism development. I was supposed to learn that, with enough nutrition, space to roam, and responsible caretaking, this tiny water worm would eventually turn into a fleshy amphibian, little by little. I was supposed to subconsciously absorb a life lesson about how maturity happens, and that it's not scary.

What I instead learned was a lesson on enormous and rapid growth, without any concept of how it occurs. My elementary school tadpole, Toni, slowly grew legs and all that, kind of. I let her loose in my backyard, near a temporary and dirty pond I had going on at the time. Several weeks later, I was surprised by the putrid corpse of a massive frog in a hole under my pond. To my eight year-old mind, this corpse was Toni, and she had grown to unnaturally huge proportions without my assistance, and in what I thought was an astoundingly short period of time. I was at once disgusted and frightened. I ran back into my house.

And thus, my concept of adulthood was born. I didn't know when it would happen to me, or how, but I was terrified of someday waking up grown: larger, stronger, scarier, possibly dead. Had I for a moment thought that perhaps this monstrosity of a creature was not my beloved Toni (which I'm sure it wasn't), I might not have been so apprehensive of my elders. But, in the same way that I was frightened and confused by the poor amphibious corpse under my pond, I didn't understand adults -- how they got so big, so smart; how they knew how to make decisions and take care of other people; how they knew their way around the neighborhood; how they managed not to be scared of movies and creaky stairs and the dark.

Obviously, I've learned a thing or two since Mrs. Link's fourth-grade class. I suppose I am one of "them" now -- a big, scary adult, and not dead. There is a chance that I'm in the middling-Toni stage, and that once I get released into the dirty backyard pond of America I'll suddenly find myself much larger, slimier, and hiding in a hole somewhere, though I doubt it. I am, instead, rather calm and capable. I love maps and can navigate fairly well; I'm able to manage a classroom full of energetic French children; I can live independently; I am generally confident in my intellectual and physical abilities. In other words, I grew legs.

So it is with these new, springy legs that I want to crush the skulls of all irresponsible, wasteful, ignorant adults! After having made it to the not-so-scary stage of human maturity myself, I now realize how much deliberate laziness plagues our society: laziness of mind and body, as well as moral laziness and just general selfishness, which I consider to be an extremity of laziness. My argument: you know better. That's it.

All it takes is the knowledge that I know more than my students, in general, to keep me going. I have absolutely no right to give them half-baked information, slack off on my lessons, or blow them off when they misbehave, simply because I know better. I can't. It's so incredibly unfair, knowing what I do now and remembering how little I knew -- or, rather, what I thought I knew -- when I was their age. I am responsible to their naivete.

I'm not calling for anything as severe as a culling of unworthy adults (however, I wouldn't feel so bad about thinning out the Tea Party herd, ahem), though a moral revolution wouldn't be such a bad idea. I'm just… perplexed. And enraged. My anger is directed mostly at people in power, since I find that everyday Joes like myself are close enough to the roots of society to see and anticipate decision-based damage (i.e., building a Bank of America over the town park will probably cause an uprage). It's those who've chosen to lose sight of humanity who are making our world's decisions, who are able to serve lunchtime poison to preteens and who can (or who could!), without a glimmer of guilt, deny a diabetic child insulin. I say "chosen" because financial and political corruption are choices, not direct results of money and power; I won't hesitate to acknowledge that there are good people out there, doing positive things with their wealth. It's depressing that such corruption is a choice -- it would almost be comforting to learn that being in such a dehumanized state was a direct result of money or power, as a sickness is from exposure to germs. The fact that it's a choice is sickening.

What I am calling for is an enhancement of general awareness -- of what's going on in the world, what you're putting into your body, how people react to you, what you're DOING, for god's sake. Just know what you're doing, please. You know better.